By Joseph Weissglass

Several months ago, the CPSC released interim guidance on the identification of Chinese drywall. The CPSC itself admits that further development of an identification protocol is necessary. Let’s take a quick look at the steps recommended by the CPSC.

The first step calls for an evaluation of the symptoms of corrosion as caused by Chinese drywall in the home. Certainly, many of the homes that contain Chinese drywall also show signs of Corrosion. On the other hand, many of the homes do not. In the SAME document, the CPSC also says: “Homes may also be misclassified as having no drywall problem due to the absence of characteristics found to be typical in the limited testing to date. Given these limitations, additional work will continue to validate these methods and the identification guidance will be modified as necessary.”

So, now we have established that a prerequisite to further testing is evidence of corrosion, but this corrosion may or may not be present in all homes that are affected by Chinese drywall.

Although they don’t come out and say it, it seems to me that the CPSC’s recommendations are directed at those who already own homes that they suspect may be affected. If I owned a home that I thought may contain Chinese drywall, I would certainly start with a visual check for Chinese sheet rock. Assuming that no one had experienced adverse health issues, a negative check for visual symptoms would likely be the end of the inspection. If the Chinese drywall is not currently causing any issues, why would it matter?

What’s the old adage – If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Something along those lines. As someone who owns the home, the loss has already occurred. There is no more protecting you or your family financially.

Now, if I were considering the purchase of a new home, the absence of visible corrosion would not even begin to give me peace of mind. In this situation, I would be looking for a way to protect myself from entering into a situation that would cause the loss. I would want a guarantee that the home I am considering does not contain Chinese dry wall. If the home did not contain corrosion, it would pass the CPSC’s guidance. Would the CPSC then reimburse me for my losses if the home later ended up containing Chinese drywall? I think we all know the answer to that one.

Someone considering the purchase of a new home should be looking for a more comprehensive/guaranteed testing options. If the home is cleared by this test and later found to contain Chinese drywall, the associated insurance would cover the losses.

Similarly, if my family was experiencing health problems that could be associated with Chinese wallboard, I would continue on in spite of the absence of corrosion. I would want to know without a shadow of a doubt whether or not my home contained Chinese drywall. Of course, if my builder were repairing homes affected or there was another pressing reason to obtain more quantitative evidence, I would commission a full sampling of my home as well.

The CPSC guidance was better than nothing, but only for people who already own the home they are concerned about. In my experience, it just confuses people who are considering the purchase of a home. Potential buyers need a guarantee that the home they are considering does not contain Chinese drywall.

Certified Chinese Drywall Testing, LLC
877-399-2238

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Joseph_Weissglass

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When homeowners take on the task of hanging drywall there are tips on installing drywall that will make the process simpler and with a look of professionalism. Before beginning you should have the access to the proper tools for getting the job done correctly and efficiently.

Drywall is available in various sizes and styles. Sheets of drywall can be purchased in four feet wide by eight, ten or twelve feet in length, as well as green board which is used for a bathroom or any other area that will be prone to excessive moisture. Thickness also will vary with normal use of 1/2 inch for walls and 5/8 inch for ceilings. The larger pieces of drywall are difficult to hang so for those not accustomed to doing this type of work it is recommended that the four by eight sheets be used.

To get the measurements needed, measure the complete area floor to ceiling and around entire perimeter. Square feet is the length times width so to find how many sheets of drywall are needed divide the total square feet by thirty two. This will give you the amount of four by eight sheets to purchase, get an extra one or two for errors. You will also need a screw gun, screws, drywall mud, a drywall knife, keyhole saw, drywall tape, mud pan, a six inch mud knife, eight inch mud knife, ten inch knife and sandpaper.

Before hanging any drywall the building should have passed previous inspection to include framing, electrical wiring, insulation and plumbing. The ceiling will be the first to be completed and requires lifts or jacks to hold the sheets in place while screwing into the framing. Put a screw approximately every twelve inches apart along the length of the stud. The screw or nail should be recessed in order to prevent popping later.

After completing the ceiling begin hanging drywall on the wall starting at the top. For the best and sturdiest results hang each sheet in a staggered fashion. Working down the wall until reaching the floor. There should be a gap of approximately 1/2 inch away from any sub flooring. Use the keyhole saw to cut around electrical boxes and a drywall saw for removing any excess length from the drywall sheets.

After all the drywall has been hung the remaining part of this process is to do the finishing. Put corner bead on the corners either by using mud or screwing into place, it will depend on the style of beading you have purchased.

Next using the six inch knife apply a layer of compound over a seam then place the drywall tape over the mud. Using the six inch knife and light pressure slide the knife over the tape starting in the center and working up, then from center down. The knife should have slight pressure and lay almost flush against the wall. This pulls the mud from the center out through the tape to make it adhere and lay flat. Using the small knife fill in all screw holes. Allow to dry overnight.

On the following day you will be filling in the seams to provide an even surface. With the eight inch or a ten inch knife if eight was used to tape, start at the bottom of the wall and apply a layer of mud smoothly over the tape. It will be thick but, try to avoid excessive bulk. This will need to dry overnight. The next day you will sand and apply a skim coat. When sanding the seams avoid putting to much pressure on the sanding or it will go through to the tape. When all sanding is complete, using the ten inch or twelve inch knife, apply a fine layer of mud over the seams. During this step very little mud is used and most is removed, it is only to provide an extra smooth surface. Vacuum all dust in between coats and remember to wipe dust from walls prior to painting. These tips on installing drywall also apply to those who are hanging green board in moisture prone areas.

Discover those drywall suppliers in your area with the best prices. Finding local building materials should be something that is easily accomplished.

By Jason Whitney

In today’s tight real estate market, those who do choose to put their houses on the market are certainly looking for any available advantage in the tight competition they are sure to face. Finding low-cost techniques that add charm and character is one great way to accomplish this goal. The good news is that you don’t have to invest a lot into a simple fix to make your home stand out. One technique you can do yourself is drywall texturing. You can follow some simple steps and find Drywall Texturing Made Easy.

First, be sure to allot a good amount of time for the project. You don’t want to rush through this artistic process. Also remember that the room will need to be painted when you are finished. To get started, the first step is to remove outlet and light fixture plates from the walls. Cover the floor, since even Drywall Texturing Made Easy can get messy. (Also, at this point, be sure to remove any wallpaper. It will not provide an adequate base for the joint compound that you will use, and will end up becoming a time-consuming mess to fix. This is not what you want a potential buyer to see in your home!)

The first step in Drywall Texturing Made Easy is to spread a thin coat of drywall compound around the walls where you want to start with an 8-12 inch straight trowel. A thickness of about 1/8 of an inch is ideal, but for a more varied texture, spread thicker. Start with just a small area; you don’t want to compound to dry before you complete the texturing portion of the application. It’s better to under estimate the time involved than to over estimate at this step.

After you’ve spread the compound, you can make any kind of texture you want. Experiment a little bit until you find something you like. Ideas include using old paintbrushes, wallpaper brushes, sponges, or even your fingers and hands. Go ahead and have some fun at this point, but remember that less is usually more when the texture is covering an entire room. Be sure to wear latex gloves if you are using your fingers or hands. It might not be a bad idea to wear them anyway. After you’ve finished a small portion, simply continue to work your way around the room, alternating between applying the compound and texturing it.

Jason Whitney writes about drywall texturing at http://www.drywalltexturepro.com/

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jason_Whitney

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